Rosemary's Perfect Cream - Basic Formula

[MissChief]

Here's the recipe for a basic cream; it makes about 19 oz. of cream.

6 oz. liquid oil (any carrier oil and/or herbal-infused oil)
3 oz. solid oil (any oil that is solid at room temperature)
1 oz. beeswax
9 oz. water (distilled water, floral waters, witch hazel, herbal infusions or fruit or vegetable juice; aloe gel, herbal tinctures, glycerine or other water-soluble ingredients should be included in the total water measure)

To make:

Pour 6 oz. liquid oil into heat-proof measuring cup. Add pieces of solid oil into liquid. Then add beeswax. Heat over boiling water (or microwave) until it's all melted. Stir.

Allow to cool to body temperature or until the mixture begins to turn opaque. Stir occasionally to keep the consistency smooth and uniform.

While the oils are cooling, pour the water phase into a measuring cup and heat slightly.

When the oils are ready, pour into a blender. Process at high speed. Slowly drizzle the water phase into the oil phase and process until it thickens. Once all the water is in, scrape down the sides and process until all the water in incorporated. Essential oils can be added at this point and processed in or added when you put the oils into the blender. Scoop into clean jars and enjoy!

If using herbal infused waters or juice, cream must be refrigerated and used up quickly.

[edensong]

I have a couple similar recipes that use beeswax but no borax. Do you use a preservative with this?

[Ananda]

Hi MissCheif!

Is this a more recent recipe? I remember her original recipe calling for 1/4 tsp lanolin, and Sandalwood eo and vanilla fragrance.
just curious!

Eden~ If you were going to sell this you may have to consider a preservative. Anything that is an emulsion; water and oil together; or contains anything remotely perishable such as an unstable flax oil or an herbal infusion you would definitely need a good preservative. If you are making this basic cream as above, just for you, and you take care to use very clean supplies, you should be just fine. I've made years of creams without, and rarely had an issue.

Have fun!

[edensong]

Thanks, Ananda!

[MissChief]

Ananda, this is a variation on Rosemary's Cream by Dina Falcone from her book. I've used Dina's recipes for a while now and love them. They haven't failed me yet.

As well, I've started to branch out and make my own creams "to order", for specific needs or requirements. So much fun!

[edensong]

MissChief, do you add a preservative? Do you ever have problems with separation?

[MissChief]

If I'm just making it for myself, I don't always add a preservative. It depends on what the cream is going to be used for (i.e. body vs face). I know I'll use up a batch of body cream far faster than I will a batch of face cream, so I'll put a preservative in the face cream, but not the body cream. If I'm making it to sell, I add about 5 ml (1 tsp) of germall to the cream.

As for separation, yes, I have had that problem occasionally. I was going to ask Ananda about it, actually. I make a knitter's hand cream that separates a little. BUT.. I think I've managed to fix it by replacing some of the beeswax with emulsifying wax and cutting back slightly on the liquids. Seems to be better now. I think the problem is that there may be just a little too much liquid compared to the oils. I don't think you HAVE to use all the liquids. It may even depend on altitude, temperature.. all sorts of things (just a thought).

As well, instead of waiting for the whole oil/wax mixture to cool completely, I now put it in the blender while it's still somewhat warm, whiz the liquids in and then wait until it cools completely, whizzing it now and then. That also seems to help.

[edensong]

Thanks, MissChief.

I wonder, is there such a thing as a natural ewax?

[MissChief]

According to the web site that I order some of my stuff from, the e-wax I use is vegetable derived.

http://www.voyageursoapandcandle.com/st ... t=35&path=

[edensong]

Yes, I'm familiar with Polawax Emulsify Wax.

My problem is that I'm trying to make my products as organic/natural as possible. Being "derived" from natural sources, unfortunately doesn't necessarily make it natural.

If you can make it in your kitchen "from scratch" from a natural animal or botanical source, using no synthetic chemicals, then the ingredient might be considered natural. By the FDA's definition, if an ingredient is extracted DIRECTLY from a natural source, then it's natural.

[MissChief]

True... but then, I don't claim that my products are 100% natural. They're made using natural ingredients... there's a difference.

With Rosemary's Cream, you don't need an e-wax, generally speaking. I've done many batches that have never separated.

[edensong]

Gotcha! Thanks.

[Ananda]

Hi Miss Chief~

Separation can be from a number of things. It could be the blender's speed isn't high enough to get the molecules frully bonded and small enough. It could be that you aren't using enough semisolid oils. It could be that the cream is too warm and not fully whipped, in which case do as you mentioned with the cool/whip alternating just a little more until it thickens a little more convincingly.

It's hard to tell while I'm not there to see it and see the recipe. Does it include alcohol or citric acid?

Love
Ananda

[MissChief]

I have a feeling I may just have a little too much liquid in the recipe. It doesn't contain any alcohol or citric acid at all; just basic oils, lanolin, the hard oils and the liquids.

[vida]

Hi gals... reading these posts here and just DYING to make my own cream. but... um... what are solid fats? I have lanolin, beeswax, carrier oil and such, but haven't got a clue as to a solid... um... thing. I've got this crisco-type vegetable solid thing for cooking that I NEVER use cuz it's just not healthy stuff. And I don't have any aloe gel either (and probably won't be able to get any here). I do have aloe plants outside...

oh boy... will SOMEONE enLIGHTEN me? Pease-pease-pity-pease?

hugs,
Vida